Miles: 163.5 | A late start, a soggy sleeping bag, and one last bald before town — then Lonnie’s black truck appears at Stecoah Gap. Hot showers, clean clothes, chocolate milk, and a diner burger reset my nervous system. For the first time, I sit down with the guidebook and realize the Smokies aren’t some looming monster — they’re just the next stretch of trail.
I woke up late and didn't leave camp until 9:00am. Groggy, I got up and packed quickly. The trash bag I had slept in made my sleeping bag wet. It seemed like everything made my sleeping bag wet. Which Way and Next Step left before me and wished me luck. It was a cold morning and I started out slow. I went over Cheoah Bald accompanied by Liam. Which Way, Next Step, and Tangerine ahead of us.
I was out at Stecoah Gap by 11:30am to be picked up by Lonnie, the hostel owner. I waited for him with Tangerine at the picnic area at the gap. Lonnie showed up in his black truck to pick me up. He told me about the Smokies, which were in my very near future, and pointed out Clingman's Dome (highest point on the AT) in the distance. We pulled up to a diner and went around the back to a trailer.
He explained he has this double wide trailer and his former childhood home that was up the street a little ways that he rents to hikers. We went inside and he showed me around. For the first night the beds were all taken so I slept on the fold out couch.
The other two women that were staying there were out slackpacking so I had the trailer to myself for a bit. It was very clean and I had my choice of two bathrooms to shower in. There was even washing machines that Lonnie lets hikers use for free.
I showered, did my laundry, and emptied out my food bag. I went out front to the diner and got a burger with onion rings for lunch. The waitress even got me a big glass of chocolate milk (after giggling when I ordered it. Apparently it's on the kids menu...).
I looked at the guidebook and planned out what I wanted to hike through the Smokies. After finally looking at the guidebook, I felt more ready and capable for the Smokies. What had seemed so daunting and intimidating now seemed possible! After lunch I went back to the hostel, set up on the couch and blogged for a bit while watching TV.
Soon, the other hikers came back. We all went out to Ingles and the Liquor Store with Lonnie in his 'Stinkin' Lincoln' (his affectionate name for his Lincoln Town Car). The windy mountain roads to Robbinsville made it feel like he was driving so fast. I was so used to going 2mph all the time on my feet that it seemed like he was going so fast! At the grocery store I got a few things to supplement the resupply that I had coming to Fontana (a day ahead) and a six pack of Lazy Hiker.
After much deliberation, back at the hostel that night I arranged with Lonnie to take me back to Stecoah Gap in the morning so that I could slackpack to Fontana. I was nervous about money and how many days it had taken me to get this far. I went to bed early and slept very little.