Miles: 407.5 | A slow, cold morning gives way to warmth, beer, pizza, and a much-needed mental reset at TN-19E. Back on trail, tension finally breaks — I choose positivity, speak up for myself, and let go of hiking for anyone else. Fueled by sunshine, full calories, and clarity, I push hard through the afternoon, cross 400 miles alone, and hike into camp at dusk knowing something important has shifted: this hike is mine again.
We didn’t leave camp until 11am. Once again, I didn’t sleep that night due to the cold and I slept in when the sun came up and warmed the tent. I had wanted to stop at Mountain Harbor Inn for breakfast (it’s apparently legendary and made by a pastry chef) but we woke up far too late for that. I kicked myself. I wished I had stayed there and not at Greasy Creek. I wish I could take this whole week back but I couldn’t. It wasn’t the hike I wanted to do. I was mad. Mostly at myself.
We hiked two miles to the next road, TN 19E, where one of the Georgia section hikers was waiting for their ride. He said there’s a place called Station at 19E that serves craft beers and can take you into town to eat food. A beer sounded really good. I had seen it on the map a few days before and considered going there but I prioritized Mountain Harbor when I was planning. The bar owner, who also runs a local hostel, pulled up to the gap. He said he could give us a ride. We rode in the back of his truck to the bar.
I tried their berry cider and an IPA. We met Sturdy Gurdy, Cider, Rainbow, Odd Job and Babaganoosh there. We chatted for a while and the bar owner brought over some pepperoni pizzas for us!
We ate and drank until we were full. Around 2pm we headed back to the trail. The owner gave us a ride back in his truck.
When we got back to the trail it was hot. The mid day sun beat down on us. It had finally warmed up. Sweat rolled down my face as I climbed the first hill in a meadow. I was so happy the sun was out. As we climbed Maverick complained behind me. He complained about the heat. He complained about the sun on his head. He complained about the incline. Finally I stopped. Turned around.
“I need you to stop being so negative. I’m having a good day and I can’t put up with your negativity right now.” His face immediately changed. Shock and then anger. “I’m being negative?!” He retorted. “You’re the one who’s been negative all week and I’ve put up with it!” He was right I had been negative.
But he was also the one who told me that I needed to stop being so negative and take control of my own narrative. I had finally taken his advice and he wasn’t having it. “I would like to have a positive day,” I said. “If you do not then you can walk ahead.” I stopped listening after this and stepped to the side of the trail. I didn’t make any eye contact. He stormed passed me saying something about me being the one who was really negative and how dare I? I let him get ahead.
I called my mom as I walked slowly up the hill. I embraced the heat and the sun and happily talked to my mom about where I want to be mentally. We chatted for half an hour. Eventually, I lost cell service so I hiked on faster. I listened to a few podcast episodes and some happy music. I had a really good day. My stomach was full of beer and pizza. My head was full of positivity. I decided while I walked that I wanted to leave Hampton, TN (our next town) solo. I decided I needed some time to myself and I needed to stop hiking for someone else.
I stopped at a few side trails trying to stay positive and enjoy the trail. And I passed 400 miles by myself.
As exhausted as I was, I made my miles. I did a full 14 miles after 2pm. I hiked through the sunset.
Past a river, through a field, over some small hills, into a rhododendron tunnel.
Eventually I came to Upper Laurel Fork where Maverick and I had agreed to meet earlier that morning. I was honestly surprised to see him there. I figured in his anger he would have ditched me. The sun was mostly set as I walked into the camp site.
“I’m sorry about earlier,” I started. “I should have gone about that a better way. But I wanted to be more positive and you were making it difficult for me to do that. I think after today I need to hike my own hike.” He let me finish my entire sentence. He stood from where he was sitting. “I’m surprised you even showed up.” He said.
I was expecting an apology, obviously I didn’t get one. He told me he hung a bear line already that we can share. I set up my tent next to his and got water. I made my Mountain House meal and ate as quickly as I could. He waited for me to finish eating so that he could hang our food bags.
(Photo was captured the next morning)
We went to bed without many more words. On this day I started adding a new section to my journal entries. 3 Positives:
1. I stood up for myself
2. Warm weather and sun
3. Beer/Cider