Miles: 785.9 | An early start and the promise of burgers and beer fuel a strong push toward Glasgow, even as physical limits start to bark back. Trail magic stacks up—unexpected food, cold drinks, and a perfectly timed ride—culminating in a warm, generous welcome at Craig and Tania’s cabin. With grilled food, real showers, laundry, and honest conversations about post-trail life, the day feels like a true reset. Exhausted but cared for, I finally sleep deeply, grateful for timing, kindness, and the people who show up right when you need them.
We got up early! We actually got up, too! We hopped out of bed and packed quickly. Miles finished packing before me and headed out. I was out of camp by 6:30am. I passed the guillotine.
I cruised through the first ten miles without any problems. I ran into Miles around then. Craig and Tania had texted us back! "When will you be at the Glasgow trailhead parking?"
"Around 5pmish" we replied.
"Cool! We'll meet you at the trail head 5-5:30ish. You most likely won't have service there so get hiking! P.S. We'll grill tonight, so get hamburgers and vegetables on your minds guys. And beer and wine!" they sent back.
We looked at each other, wide mouthed grins on our tired faces. I could hike as far and as fast as you want if you offered me a burger and beer! With this good news in mind we kept going, a little faster.
We stopped for water at a spring. [TMI WARNING]: I realized, in leaving so early I had abandoned my poop schedule. Most people develop one out here. You don't often stop during the day with good places to poop so usually you either go in the morning or at night at camp and that's it.
Well, I hadn't gone at all that day and I usually go in the morning. I suddenly, at noon, had to go very badly. I ran up the trail from the water and dropped my water bottles by my pack. I grabbed my trowel and toilet paper as fast as I could. I'd been eating a lot of crappy food that week. My diet had consisted of salt and fat and more salt. I ran to a tree down the hill, away from the trail.
[Serious TMI warning]: I squatted by the tree and I swear I tore myself a new asshole and the usual, recommended 6" x 6" cathole was not big enough. With relief, I dug myself another cathole and used some dead leaves to help me bury it without dirtying my trowel. It was NOT a good time. Anyway, I was relieved, and probably about 5lbs lighter. [Okay, it's over now...]
I went back up the hill and grabbed my pack. We kept walking, mostly together toward the footbridge to Glasgow. We modulated through low, lush forest; high, sandy, dry mountain tops; and mild rhododendron bordered middle ground. When we were a few miles before town, Miles was ahead of me, my hip started burning. I had pushed my IT band too far and now she was pushing back. It hurt. Really badly. I started limping. I was only four miles out of town, though! I had to keep going.
I passed a small group of tourists by the river, one of the older men said, "He's just a mile ahead of you. You'll catch up, Sweetie." So many things went through my mind at this statement: Firstly, FUCK YOU. I'll catch up?! Because I'm a girl and I'm behind? He left the last break spot 10 minutes before me he's probably less than half a mile ahead, I just saw him! He's only ahead because he left before me! Did he talk to them? How did they know we were together, did they just assume? The statement just made me so mad. I was so sick of sexist, dumb comments from older men. (No offense, I know plenty of nice older men. But I'm sick of the crappy ones...)
I simply replied, "Bullshit! Quarter mile at most, I'll catch him!" The man looked taken aback as I pushed by because him and his family were standing in the middle of the trail and didn't bother to move even though I said excuse me and was clearly in a hurry...He just watched me walk passed, mouth agape. I heard him say after I'd passed, "Well then." None of his family members responded. I walked faster, his dumb comment fueling me.
I finally saw the foot bridge over the river in the distance. I was almost there! I saw Miles ahead of me as the trail straightened out, maybe a quarter mile up. I was right. My hip was burning and my feet were sore. When I finally made it to the bridge, Miles was there waiting for me. We stopped for a moment's break and took it all in. I limped across the bridge with him.
On the other side, a hiker from a previous year was under the bridge fishing. He offered us some barbeque chicken and beer. We happily took some chicken and I had a beer. So much trail magic today! We went up to the parking lot where we met Bam Bam and his dog Huckleberry. Bam Bam lives in a 1975 VW Westfalia!
We sat and chatted with him while we waited for Craig and Tania. He told us he was planning on going to Trail Days (a festival in Damascus, VA for hikers). We had pretty much decided we didn't really want to go to Trail Days. It was going to be crowded and rainy. We thought we'd rather be on the trail while everyone was there and have the trial all to ourselves. Bam Bam told us we had the right idea.
Craig and Tania pulled up in their Subaru at exactly 5:30! They helped us get our packs into the trunk and when we got into the back seat Craig pulled out a cooler of Gatorades, still cold! We rode with the windows down up the winding mountain roads to the nearest Food Lyon in Buena Vista. They bought stuff for dinner and Miles and I gathered up our reupply. I found olives in little to-go cups with no liquid! I also bought a bag of ice for my, still burning, hip.
We headed back to their house, a little cabin they were renting on the edge of town, as the sun started to set. Inside they christened our visit with a little shot of Canadian Whiskey. Craig poured us each a beer in pint glasses from his collection. They showed us around the house and we set up our stuff in the living room.
Tania set out some chips and dips and crackers and cheese for us to snack on on the back patio while we waited for the grilling. I iced my hip at the picnic table and ate snacks. Craig and Tania told me about their hike last year while Miles showered. They were so cool. Craig was working for a non-profit nature education program now and Tania was a counselor! They talked to me about post-trail depression and the "Virginia Blues" which, thankfully, none of us had gotten. They had moved from California to Virginia because they loved the area that much!
I showered after Miles. Such a good shower. Showers are so luxurious when you've been out here this long. We put in our laundry after. We ate dinner out on the patio as the sun finished setting. We played with their dogs, Lyla and Rose. We ate burgers and salad and avocados and corn!
After dinner, we had ice cream on the front porch and listened to some music while we talked. We could have stayed up all night talking but we were also dead tired. We set up my sleeping pad in the living room, which Miles slept on (it's more comfortable than his), and I slept on the couch. A fan blew cool summer night's air through the screen door. I slept well this night.